Saturday, 7th March, St John’s, Antigua 25 degrees

Although it started cloudy, by the time we got to the promenade deck the sun was out and everything had warmed up. There was rather an exotic ship moored across the way…..

The view of this rather smart number was soon to be eclipsed because two enormous ships came and parked up next to us – the Aurora looked a bit like a rose between two rather enormous thorns!!

The Arvia has 5,000 passengers and 2,000 crew and no promenade deck!! A disaster from every perspective. In case I have not said it before – the Aurora has 1,800 passengers and 750 crew – very small fry comparatively, but I would not want it any bigger methinks.

Anyway, putting that to one side, we were booked on another foodie experience this morning and by the time we joined them on the dock at 9.30 the temperature had risen to 27 degrees and it was quite windy. 12 of us set out under the guidance of young Natasha, a very bubbly Antiguan lass modelling a very dashing yellow bonnet!

She steered us off initially to Redcliffe Quay which played a big part in the slave trade activity on the island. It was where slaves were offloaded and then sold off.

Antigua is the larger island of the twin nations Antigua and Barbuda. It is renowned for its 365 white sand beaches, yachting and the English Harbour a deep water dock. We are docked in St John’s the capital of the island. Another famous landmark is Nelson’s Dockyard which is near the English Harbour and a place called Falmouth on the other side of the island, where the British first settled. Christopher Columbus gave the island its name when he dropped by in 1493. He named it after a the Virgin of the Old Cathedral in Seville.

Antigua gained independence in 1981 and is a member of the British Commonwealth. Although the main language is English. if you hear people speaking amongst themselves they tend to be speaking in patois or pigeon English. This was a language initially used to confuse the masters of the sugar plantations.

In the garden of Redcliffe Quay were some smaller breadfruit than we have seen before and some in its early growing stage.

Our first stop was at the local market. On the way we saw a large statue of their first Premier.

The market was built on the site of the slave burial ground. Many slaves were found dead on arrival in Antigua and they were buried on this site. The fruit and vegetables in the market was excellent – the avocados were huge!!

As were the water melons!

We were each given a box to tase of all the different fruits sold in the market including something called chocolate apple, which had a dark gooey consistency. In addition we had the usual favourites of plantain, pineapple, water melon, mango.

From the market we went on to the bakery – which was a new and excellent experience. Outside wood was piled up to fire the big communal oven inside. On the inside the scene was almost medieval – except for the oven master’s head torch which allowed him to see inside the vast oven.

Behind us the bread was being kneaded, cut into pieces and then set to rise. A young and very lively chap talked us through the various processes and all the time customers were coming in and out for bread. There were bags of five loaves ready to be collected. It was a veritable hive of industry – and it was hot in there! 🥵

There was a constant stream of customers – and as quickly as it came out of the oven – the bread went out of the door! I was a bit troubled by one man who had obviously just bought a bag of fish and had brought that in with him…….

Once there was a build up of bread in the oven, fruit buns were being generated. Each bun was weighed to provide the appropriate size and then rolled into shape with great agility.

Mein host who was taking us through the bakery’s activity did so with great enthusiasm and pride, provided bread to try and ‘go with’s’. There was a sweet, honey based mixture, guava and then a very tasty ‘comfort mix’ of sweetened milk, raisins, cherries soaked in rum and wine and honey. This he put in a baking tin and then opened up a baton of bread and laid it over the top and put it in the oven. When it was cooked the bread was turned out and then carved up and basically the bread was covered with a spicy mixture. It was very heartwarming and as the man said – there was love in every bite!

Our young friend was keen to tell us about the family atmosphere in the bakery and it certainly felt like that.

Our next and final port of call was the Paradise Cafe. Here we were treated to yet another version of rum punch and another mixed box of things to try – the fish stew we have had before, sweet potato mixed with sugar and spices, something they call ‘fungee’ which is like a polenta and spinach. It was a real mix of new tastes and textures.

We then wandered back to the ship – too full for lunch.

After an hours down time, Keith decided to go off to watch the Rugby Six Nations and I decided to go for a wander around town on my own. First I headed to the church which was actually closed – so young Natasha from this morning told me. She was out leading another tour round the town. Apparently the church closes on Saturdays while they prepare for Sundays – seems fair.

I felt there had to be better than the souvenir shops and I found it – the area around this mornings Redcliffe Quay where we were earlier in the day. So, having purchased myself a little dress, I wandered back to the ship having taken the precaution to buy water on the way.

And that was going to be it for the day – except that with a rush of blood to the head, I decided to do some laundry! I found an empty machine with almost my name on it and was able to complete a load and iron it before supper time.

There was only Gareth and Sian at supper, Michael and Penny having been invited to another junket to celebrate their over 50 cruises. (And still no acknowledgement of the 200 plus first timers. Ed)

Tomorrow we arrive at St. Maarten, our last Caribbean island. We are off to a beach where the airport is so close the ‘planes are only 10 ft off the ground as they fly over the beach. Sian and Gareth are off to a brewery……