We had heard there was a big farmers market in the vicinity and decided to go and have a look prior to moving out of the Hutong to the hotel where the trip starts from on Tuesday. We were therefore out by 8.30 and joined the early morning activity round the lake.
The market was great. A large covered area where vegetables, spices, meat and fish were on sale. It throbbed with activity. Discerning housewives doing their shopping for the family, older people with much smaller bags and chaps with huge amounts of stuff who I decided either had very big appetites, had large dinner parties to cater for or ran restaurants! Such was their food mountains that they carried off on the back of bicycles or barrows.
Our return journey was not quite so straightforward. We missed the lake altogether! However we were soon back on track and back at the Hutong condensing our luggage into our bags. Already no small feat although not one item has been added.
There had been a discussion about how we were going to get ourselves to the hotel as the Hutong alleyway did not accommodate cars and the hotel is about two kilometres away. A taxi was definitely not an option! As our bags do not have wheels as they would be dangerous when getting them on and off the truck, the combination of weight, distance and heat was not an attractive proposition in terms of carrying them! Our hosts came up with the solution of their goods trolley. Hmmm . Pride and falls come to mind……
So we took off with our trolley which to add to the drama only had three wheels! It was a long trip – or it seemed that way! After we got out of the maze of hutongs we were onto the open and very busy road, vying with cycle powered rickshaws, motorised tourist rickshaws (rather like those used in the film Oklahoma but without the horse!) and of course cars! Great.
Anyway, we got there and were both privately relieved to find that the only thing to welcome our rather ignominious appearance was the truck (it is official – it is a truck!) which was parked neatly on the hotel forecourt with a similar monster next to it, the property of Dragoman Tours. Keith checked in and I sat outside guarding our loaned trolley – you never know who might want to steal a three wheeled trolley in down town Beijing on a Monday lunchtime!
We then had the walk back with said vehicle to return it to the Hutong. By now it was 12.30 and the heat and humidity were at their height. By the time we had returned and set out again for the Hotel I was ready to do murders for a beer…..! In the absence of said beer I just got very snarly.
Things calmed down in the afternoon and having come across none of our soon to be compatriots we dined alone in a very brightly lit and noisy Chinese cafe.
Another early start, this time accompanied by the master of the house, Ian. Ian is 25 and until recently taught English to primary school children but has decided to try his hand at being a tour guide. Never people to miss an opportunity – we volunteered to be ‘guinea pigs’.
We left the house by turning left out of Gladys Garden (new territory for us!) and found ourselves in local land, with the local green grocer having set up shop round the corner!
Some of the Hotung area is on the Chinese tourist guide route and we passed large groups of them visiting one of the houses which has been opened up as an attraction. Apparently there used to be many more than there are now but as part of a drive for modernisation some families are being encouraged to move out and we were to quite a lot of evidence of this during our walk.
I saw a lovely old Chinese saying written on a wall: ‘There are 3,600 hutong with names and as many without names as the number of hairs on an ox.’
We moved out of the Hutong area, crossing the wide thoroughfare marking one of the ring roads that form a major part of the grid system upon which the city is based. We eventually arrived at Jingshan Park, a much larger green area than yesterday’s Behai Park. The meticulous gardens were very colourful and there were several choir groups practising, so e of them quite large with their music accompanying as we puffed up the steps of Coal Hill to reach the top and the amazing views of the city. There is a Buddhist temple on the top with Buddha looking out on the amazing sight of The Forbidden City laid out before him. The view was well worth the climb! Apparently the hill was formed by the earth excavated to make the Forbidden City moat. It must have been some moat!
We descended to enjoy further activity in the park – dancers, singers, flag wavers all totally, taichee groups and individual. All totally unselfconsciously went about their particular ‘thing’.
During our walk Ian told us something of his parents history. They had met in Canada studying ancient classical art and his father followed his mother back to China. Her father had married an English woman and both had been imprisoned during the cultural revolution for being intellectuals and intermarriage. Ian’s grandfather had been imprisoned for 4 years. His wife had been in solitary confinement for much longer. Both of their parents had been missionaries. David’s parents were also missionaries
While we talked we left the park and meandered back through a street of local artisans and the Drum and Bell towers, two enormous buildings, the originals forming part of the Mongol capital. The drum and bell tower used to be the timekeeping devices of the city with drumming and bell ringing marking the passing of the day. The bell tower is a enormous hexagonal red building, a landmark which I found later could be seen from the roof of our Hutong. Looking at the map, both are on a line forming the northern axis with the Forbidden City in the centre and south of that Tiananmen Square.
We then walked back to the house to find the dreaded bag had still not arrived. Leaving our hostess to await it’s arrival, we took Ian and David, our host, off to lunch. Choosing was left to David and we enjoyed a feast of very different dishes including an ‘interesting’ combination of celery and tofu shaped (and tasting) like straw. I don’t think that particular dish will go down as one of our favourites! We drank beers, but David gave us a sample if his preferred beverage. A raw spirit, 56 % proof.
It was definitely time for a siesta after this as the temperature had risen to 96 degrees. When we arrived at the house – alleluia! – the bag had arrived. Thank goodness! There was no indication of where it had been. I was just very relieved to get it back!
At last some fresh clothes, lighter shoes (I have been wearing walking boots since I left London on Thursday!) and some toiletries!
After a snooze I adjourned to the house roof which gave a good view over the surrounding rooftops and showed how closely the houses of the Hutong are crammed together. There is no sign of the alleyways from up there, just roof tops butting up to each other. There was also evidence of a lot of pigeon fanciers! Many of the roof top areas had cages of pigeons and there were swirls of them overhead. Nevertheless it was very pleasant up there with lots of breeze albeit hot!
We decided no more eating was required and instead strolled round another part which to date had not been explored. It took us to the most western tip where the bars were a lot less raucous and the cars much larger.
Deciding we deserved a beer – we also found the prices considerably more expensive. It was £9 for two bottles of Hoegarden beer! That’ll teach us! Darkness comes down very quickly and we wandered back past all the fisherman much better equipped in this area with little green lights on their floats!
Another day over!
Another warm one! To avoid the excessive heat of the day – the temperature is well into the 90’s – 6.30 saw me doing my homework on the Beijing Lonely Planet Guide and by 8.00 we were out and making a circumnavigation of the lake. We were not alone. Although not teeming with life, there were a number of other strollers and a couple of early morning fishermen. Their method of work was some very limp strings tied to the wall surrounding the lake against which they had parked their rusting bikes. I was not particularly confident about their chance of success but it made a good photo in the early morning light!
We then took off t Beihai Park, one of the smaller but most attractive parks in the city. It used to form part if the old imperial city and was the location of Kublai Khan’s palace. The area is once again dominated by lakes but has It’s fair share of temples and a huge white ‘dagoba’ on an island on the lake which dominates the skyline.
The highlight of the park was its people. True to form of the Chinese approach to living – all life was on display! Ballroom dancers, a full Chinese orchestra, Taichee practitioners, streamer twirlers, shuttlecock throwers and Chinese opera singers. We arrived at the orchestra to hear them tuning up and stopped with several hundred others to hear them perform. We were the only western people present and it was great fun! We weren’t quite so sure about the opera although it obviously had its supporters. It sounded somewhat pained to us. Obviously for the discerning listener!
We crossed to the island and perambulated around it, but by then the day was really heating up and we decided to return to the house for a siesta before taking on the world according to Beijing again.
Post siesta we decided to go to see an acrobatic show. This entailed our first grappling with the Beijing underground network which proved remarkably easy and very cheap.
The acrobats were something else! Their costumes might have been a little saggy and jaded in parts but the enthusiasm and nerve was certainly not wanting! Needless to say I spent a lot of the hour with my head in my hand as I could not look! Keith told me they were very good!
We rounded off our day with a meal of Peking Duck – where else but in Peking! Interestingly the people who live here seem to call it Peking rather than Beijing.
We got back to our Hutong to find that the airline had called to say the bag would be delivered but it could be very late. Amazing! Great news! However, my joy was somewhat deflated when having waited up, it still had not arrived by 12.30 am and a phone call at about 1.00 am woke the whole household to be told it would be delivered on Sunday……..
……. The orchestra tuning up
Well, after an excellent flight with Air China, they did not do quite so well with the baggage as mine has not arrived. I have a feeling that this might not be as unusual as one would like to think judging by the number of people (probably around 100) in the Air China baggage reclaim office when we went to register its non appearance.
Trying to maintain the ‘sang droid’ of the seasoned traveller I said things like ‘never mind these things happen’ and ‘no-one has died’ ……. And then I thought of all the stuff in my bag and the need to replace it if the said item does not materialise before we are due to leave Beijing. Eeeeek! The bedding equipment is one of the main issues. Where do we find a camping shop with a four seasons sleeping bag in Beijing?!
A quick (10 minutes while the insurance claims department checked the policy) call to the insurance company did little to reassure me as they said I could spend up to £100 if it was still lost after 24 hours but nothing more until the airline declared the bag permanently lost – an unspecified period.
Hopefully it will turn up shortly. I am not holding my breath but am deferring panic.
Nothing to be done about the bag, we set out to find some underwear (I carried one spare outfit in my rucksack but omitted knickers!) .
We are staying in an ‘Air BnB’ establishment in the Hutong area of Beijing. This is the district comprising the series of alleyways that criss cross the city centre and provide the homes to many locals, as I understand it. Our accommodation is in a quiet side street and works something like a ‘rhiad’
In Marrakesh. Access is gained through a gateway off a narrow lane which opens into a courtyard with a sizeable house and garden. It is very near the Houhai Lakes.
Ours is called Gladys Garden and is the home of a very nice lady who is Chinese (to date not named) and Dave, a Canadian.
However, to return to the knicker hunt. We were directed back over the bridge across the lake and along a number of streets to find a department store known as the ‘Christmas Shop’ due to a figure of Father Christmas stationed permanently on display outside! It sounded rather unlikely but proved very helpful for identification purposes!
We had dinner seated outside in a quite busy thoroughfare just off Crooked Pipe Road. Hutong has a hectic nightlife where cafe and bar owners vie with each other for your business and their singers vie with each other for airtime – which makes for an interesting mixture of sights, sounds and odours as you take in the ‘local colour’ or in my case look for anything that might replace my travel wardrobe if all else fails!
So…….I have exhausted my lists, the miracle of packing has taken place (see picture of pack if I can master the technology!) and I am ‘ready’
My thoughts now turn to ‘The Journey’. Circa 4,500 miles from Beijing to Istanbul. The way of ancient merchants bringing the wonders of the orient to the west. We set out tomorrow (24th July) and return to the UK on 30th October. What experiences we will have had by then, what sights will have been seen and how many people we will have met along the way.
Historically my travel ramblings have been confined to my paper diary or in more recent times the occasional email from abroad. However, never let it be said that I don’t move with the times! This time I am going to attempt a ‘Blog’??!! How or whether this will work I do not know at this stage – but I will give it a try. Bulletins are likely to be intermittent as Wifi comes and goes along the way, but do not fret dear audience (if there is one – I may just be talking to myself – a not unusual occurrence!) I will save the morsels of news for you and go to print at the next opportunity.
So let’s get started. By some cunning means I will try to attach the route map and a picture of the ‘truck’ (Keith calls it a bus, the travel company call it Penelope……. ?) in order that you can visualise the mode of transport.
And there I will end my first epistle. The next communication Beijing! I hope!